Skincare actives: The truth about hyaluronic acid

HA in skincare

Hyaluronic acid is composed of repeating units of disaccharides, which are sugars that contribute to its ability to attract and retain moisture. In skincare formulations, HA acts as a humectant, drawing water from the environment into the skin and providing intense hydration. It is a common ingredient in various skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. 

Comparison to other humectants

When it comes to moisture retention, hyaluronic acid is often praised for its unique ability to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, however, recent studies show that it in fact can hold 10-100 times its weight in water. While still a significant amount, its effectiveness in topical applications is widely debated. Small studies conducted in Germany and Japan in 2016 and 2017 with facial creams and supplements containing HA, respectively, both demonstrated a reduction in wrinkles and signs of aging.

However, a 2015 article published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, referenced in Medical News Today here says that over-the-counter skincare products containing HA may not be effective as the HA molecules are too large to penetrate the skin.

A study published in the Indian Journal of Dermatology in 2016, found Trihydroxylated molecule glycerol (glycerin) the most potent humectant. 

While according to our current knowledge, HA is still the most potent humectant, new findings may help discover even more potent options. But, for the time being, HA still keeps its #1 place among humectants, surpassing urea, aloe vera, and glycerin.

Winning combinations

To maximize the benefits of hyaluronic acid, pairing it with complementary ingredients can enhance its efficacy. Here are some winning combinations:

• Vitamin C: A perfect hydration combo. Together, they can brighten the skin and provide antioxidant protection while HA locks in moisture. 

• Niacinamide: This powerful duo improves the skin barrier function, enhances hydration, improves skin tone and brightens the skin.

• Peptides: Combining HA with peptides boosts helps improve skin firmness and elasticity providing anti-aging benefits.

• Glycerin: Using both humectants can create a synergistic effect, making the skin more resilient and less susceptible to damage. Glycerin forms a protective barrier that shields the skin from environmental irritants, while HA helps fortify the skin’s natural moisture barrier. 

Combinations to avoid

While HA pairs well with many ingredients, there are a few combinations that may not work as effectively:

• High Alcohol Concentrations: Products with high levels of alcohol can counteract HA's hydrating benefits, leading to dryness.

• Strong Acids: Using HA alongside strong exfoliants like AHAs or BHAs can irritate the skin, especially for sensitive types.

Climate considerations

The effectiveness of hyaluronic acid can be influenced by environmental conditions:

• Humid Climates: In humid conditions, HA can draw moisture from the air, providing excellent hydration. However, it's important to ensure it’s sealed with an occlusive layer to prevent loss of hydration.

• Dry Climates: In arid conditions, HA may draw moisture from deeper layers of the skin if not properly layered with occlusives, potentially leading to dryness. It’s essential to apply it on damp skin and follow up with a rich moisturizer.

• Cold Weather: During cold months, HA should be combined with thicker creams to prevent moisture loss and protect against environmental stressors.

• Hot Temperatures: In hotter climates, lightweight, hydrating formulas with HA can refresh and cool the skin without causing heaviness.

Allergy and safety considerations

While hyaluronic acid is generally safe and widely recognized as well-tolerated. Still, some individuals may experience sensitivity or allergic reactions, though they are very uncommon. It’s advisable to perform a patch test before incorporating new products containing HA. For those who prefer alternatives, ingredients like sodium PCA, glycerin, or even plant-based humectants such as aloe vera and honey can provide hydration without the use of HA.

According to WebMD, using hyaluronic acid on the skin during radiation therapy may heighten the risk of certain skin issues. Therefore, it is advised to avoid applying hyaluronic acid if you are undergoing radiation treatment.

Additionally, for individuals with scleroderma, applying hyaluronic acid could potentially worsen skin ulcers. As a precaution, those with this condition should refrain from using hyaluronic acid on their skin.

Final thoughts

HA is an excellent humectant, but not a magic solution to all hydration problems. Combine HA with complimentary ingredients, avoid using it if reactive, undergoing radiation therapy or have scleroderma. Don’t shy away from alternatives, especially in well-formulated and well-tested products.