How to cleanse skin properly (and to tell what your skin actually needs)

What is cleansing actually supposed to do?

The goal isn't to make your skin squeaky clean. It's to remove excess oil, dirt, sunscreen, and makeup without stripping away the skin's natural barrier in the process.

That balance matters more than most people think. 

”A lot of people assume that a tight, dry feeling after washing is a sign their skin is clean. It's not — it's a sign the skin barrier has been disrupted.

How to tell if you're cleansing correctly

After washing your face, don't apply anything. Wait 2-5 minutes and pay attention to how your skin feels:

• Tight or uncomfortable — if your skin doesn't normally feel dry, you're over-cleansing, and your cleanser is too harsh

• Still oily or slightly sticky — it didn't get clean enough, or you might need a double cleanse

• Comfortable, slightly balanced — that's exactly where you want to be

This simple test is the most straightforward way to tell whether your cleanser is actually working for your skin.

The most common cleansing mistakes

Using soap-based cleansers Healthy skin has a naturally slightly acidic pH, sitting somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5. This acidity helps maintain the skin barrier and keeps harmful bacteria in check. Soap-based cleansers tend to have a much higher pH — often between 9 and 11 — which disrupts that balance. They clean effectively, but they also strip the skin's natural lipid layer in the process. Your skin feels fresh right after, but the barrier is compromised. Over time, this leads to increased sensitivity and, ironically, more oil production.

Over-cleansing Washing three or four times a day, or scrubbing hard every time — this repeatedly disrupts the skin barrier. For most people, twice a day is plenty.

Water that's too hot Hot water breaks down the skin's natural oils and leaves it feeling dry and tight. Lukewarm is all you need.

Skipping the first cleanse If you're wearing sunscreen or makeup, a regular cleanser usually isn't enough on its own. You need a dedicated makeup remover or cleansing oil first, then follow with your regular cleanser. Skip this step consistently and your pores will slowly pay for it.

Choosing the right cleanser for your skin type

• Oily or combination skin — an amino acid or gentle foaming cleanser that removes excess oil without going too far.

~ The CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser is a solid option — it cleans effectively while keeping the skin barrier intact.

• Dry or sensitive skin — a cream or non-foaming formula with more moisturizing ingredients, so your skin doesn't feel stripped after.

~ The Tatcha The Rice Wash is a great option here — soft, non-stripping, and gentle enough for even the most reactive skin.

• Acne-prone skin — a salicylic acid cleanser can help keep pores clear, but don't use it every day — it can be too irritating with daily use.

~ Paula's Choice Clear Pore Normalizing Cleanser is a gentler salicylic acid option that's less likely to over-strip.

Cleansing is the foundation everything else in your routine is built on. Get it right, and the rest of your products actually have a chance to work. Get it wrong, and even the most expensive serum won't be able to fix it. 

Author: Wenli Hu