Aug 8, 2025

How to make oily skin less oily

Sebum production plays a crucial role in maintaining the health and appearance of our skin. But what exactly is sebum?

Sebum is an oily substance produced by sebaceous glands located in the dermis layer of the skin. In other words, it is the grease your skin products to lubricate and protect the skin. Sebum forms a natural barrier that helps prevent moisture loss, keeping the skin hydrated and soft.

In other words, sebum is oil our skin produces to keep moisture in and protect itself.

Why does it matter?

1. Hydrates and retains moisture

Sebum forms a protective barrier on the skin's surface, helping to lock in moisture and prevent transepidermal water loss (it ensures moisture doesn’t escape).

2. Protects against environmental stressors

Sebum contains fatty acids that have antibacterial and antifungal properties, helping to protect the skin from pathogens and reducing the risk of infections.

The oily layer of sebum can help shield the skin from harmful environmental factors such as pollution, UV rays, and harsh weather conditions.

3. Regulates the skin’s pH

Sebum contributes to the skin's acid mantle (protective, slightly acidic skin barrier), which helps maintain an optimal pH level. This acidic environment is crucial for skin health, as it supports the growth of beneficial bacteria while inhibiting harmful ones.

4. Heals and helps repair

Sebum is involved in the natural process of skin cell turnover, helping to shed dead skin cells and promoting the growth of new ones. This process is crucial for maintaining a healthy complexion and preventing clogged pores.

It’s not that simple with sebum

Sebum production is not linear and changes from time to time. It differs across individual people and genders, and is noted to be higher in men than women due to higher testosterone levels.

Diet can impact sebum production. Diets high in refined sugars and dairy have been linked to increased oiliness and acne.

Environmental factors play a role in sebum production, too. In humid conditions, sebaceous glands become more active. Though the presence of moisture in the air can reduce the need for the skin to produce oil solely for hydration, it can also prompt the skin to produce more oil to create a protective barrier, to prevent moisture loss.

In dry conditions, the skin may produce less oil initially because it is focusing on retaining the available moisture. Over time, the skin may produce oil in excess to compensate for increased dryness.

What happens when there’s MORE sebum than needed

Oiliness: Excessive sebum production results in an oily appearance, which can be uncomfortable. This is particularly common during teenage years due to hormonal influence.

Acne: High sebum levels are strongly associated with acne. Research suggests that up to 80% of the population experience acne at some point in their lives, with excess sebum playing a significant role in acne development. The overproduction of sebum can lead to clogged pores, resulting in blackheads, inflammation, and acne.

What happens when there’s LESS sebum than needed

Dryness: When not enough sebum is produced, skin can become dry, flaky, and irritated. A study noted that as we age, our skin's sebaceous output decreases, contributing to dryness.

Acne: Interestingly, dry skin can also lead to acne. When skin lacks moisture, the body may overcompensate by producing excess sebum, which, combined with dead skin cells, can clog pores and cause breakouts.

Sensitivity: Insufficient sebum can make the skin more sensitive to environmental stressors and irritants, leading to redness and discomfort.

Is there a way to balance things out?

Yes! Luckily, there are a few things you can do to help your skin.

Skincare

Lifestyle

Be mindful of the products you use at every step of your routine.

Cleanser

Do: gentle, hydrating cleanser that supplies water to skin.

Don’t: harsh cleansers that strip away oils. It can lead to overcompensation of sebum production, creating a vicious cycle.

Moisturizer

Do: lightweight, gel, hydrating moisturizer with aloe vera or hyaluronic acid to keep the skin well hydrated.

Don’t: heavy comedogenic formulations that can clog pores.

Exfoliant

Do: gentle, chemical exfoliants like AHAs or BHAs

Don’t: physical scrubs that can damage the skin

Masks

Do: clay masks to absorb excess oil

Don’t: heavy masks

Treatments

Do: Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier

Don’t: Fragrances may lead to increased sebum production.

Ingredient spotlight: Salicylic acid, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, niacinamide, retinoids (be careful with concentrations), clay, witch hazel/

While the right skincare certainly makes a difference, your diet, exposure to elements and AC, stress levels, and physical activity all impact your skin health.

Diet

Do: Add omega-3 to your diet with walnuts, flaxseeds and flaxseed oil or fish. Drink plenty of water of “Eat your water”, as recommends Maryanne Russo-Ramirez, founder of Equilibrium Esthetic Studio.

Don’t: High-glycemic foods, like sweets, pastries, processed foods and sweet carbonated beverages. Multiple studies suggest that such a diet significantly increases the risk of acne. (Acne.org)

Do: use a humidifier along with AC in dry environments to prevent skin from overproducing sebum to balance dryness.

Don’t: Overexpose yourself to AC and artificially create a dry environment.

Physical activity and stress

Do: Introduce exercise and mindfulness to control stress levels and find outlets for stress.

Don’t: Accept stress as the norm of live. Stress triggers hormonal changes that lead to increased sebum production.

Touching your face

Don’t: avoid touching your face, especially if you haven’t just washed your hands. Touching the face can transfer oils and dirt, leading to clogged pores and increased oiliness.

Final thoughts

Don’t despair if your skin is oily or if oiliness increased recently. Think about all the things that could have possibly triggered the changes. Make adjustments. Yes, skincare may appear a simpler solution, but with everything health-related, a holistic approach is more likely to bring results. Combine Salicylic acid treatments with a healthier diet and exercise, and the results will come faster.