Retinol + Vitamin C: Power actives best used apart

Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid): is an antioxidant that brightens the skin, improves skin tone, and protects the skin against environmental damage.

Retinol (form of Vitamin A): encourages cell turnover, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and improves skin texture and tone.

Though both are a form of a vitamin, they work best when they aren’t part of the same formulation or a series of products applied one after another. Retinol and Vitamin C can have different pH levels (pH of 3.5 for Vitamin C and 5.5-6 for Retinol) and if used together, can reduce each other’s effectiveness, and may cause skin reactions.

For best results, use Vitamin C in the morning and Retinol at night.

Why?

Vitamin C Vitamin C is most effective during the day as it helps neutralize free radicals from sun exposure and protects against environmental damage (e.g., UV rays, pollution). So when you use it as part of your morning routine, your skin will be protected throughout the entire day. That said, don’t skip sunscreen.

Retinol works its magic best at night, as exposure to UV light can degrade it, and skin with retinol can be photosensitive. 

Here's a basic Retinol + Vitamin C routine. Please note that it may not be suitable for sensitive skin.

How to avoid irritation

• Alternate Nights: If you have sensitive skin or are new to these ingredients, consider using retinol and vitamin C on alternate nights rather than using Vitamin C in the morning and Retinol at night. Let your skin rest and adjust.

• Start Slowly: Introduce retinol to your routine slowly. Start with the lowest possible concentrations and only use it once a week. Then, increase to twice a week and continue increasing frequency of use to daily slowly, if no reaction.

• Buffer with moisturizer: Apply a moisturizer before retinol to create a buffer, reducing the potential for irritation. Make sure your bugger cream doesn’t contain Vitamin C or other actives, such as AHAs and BHAs that can irritate your skin. 

• Don’t use both Retinol and Vitamin C in one application, even in low concentrations.

Don’t persevere, adjust!

• In case of irritation, such as redness, peeling, or dryness, cut back on the frequency of use or apply a richer moisturizer after application of each Retinol and Vitamin C or introduce a buffer, if you haven't already.

• Hydrate: Keep your skin well-hydrated with moisturizers containing hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or ceramides to support the skin barrier.

But Vitamin A and Vitamin C are found in some natural products...

Yes, nature somehow got it right. Rosehip oil, Papaya, Mango Butter, etc. contain both Vitamin A and Vitamin C. However, unlike Retinol, Vitamin A generally present in natural products is in the form of beta-carotene, a much gentler active with lower irritation potential. Naturally occurring Vitamin C present in such products as Rosehip oil, is generally stable and less potent than its synthetic counterpart. 

If plunging straight into potent actives gives you a pause, starting with some less potent, natural actives, may be the way to go for you. Rosehip oil and carrot seed oil are a perfect way to start. 

Final thoughts:

Combining retinol and vitamin C in your routine effectively requires careful timing, layering, and slow introduction to avoid irritation.